Monthly Archive for September, 2008

Townsville & Magnetic Island

After Mission Beach, my next stop was to be Magnetic Island where I would catch-up with the guys for a couple of nights, then stay behind to complete the SSI Open-Water Diving course. It was a very simple plan, but it became a little more complicated when it emerged that the dive medical required to start the course would not be performed on the island (as I was led to believe), and that I now had a day and a half to find a doctor, make an appointment and get myself declared fit-to-dive. This meant stopping along the way in Townsville.

I’d been told that there weren’t many reasons to stop in Townsville unless visiting relatives or conducting urgent medical business. As far as I could see, it has a small ferry terminal, an RAAF base, a few (mostly empty) pubs and thankfully, a couple of doctor’s clinics! When I checked into my hostel I made a point of asking if there were many places in the town were I could get my dive medical. After being assured that it was a very common request around these parts, and that all the clinics accept walk-in patients, I went to sleep feeling a lot more relaxed. I soon found out that these were all lies! Except the part about dive medicals being a very common request. So common in-fact that the next appointment one clinic could give me was in 6 days away! Eventually, and after a little bit of exaggeration, I was given a cancelled slot for the next afternoon. The medical itself was a lot more thorough than I had been expecting, but after an hour of being poked and interrogated, I was given a sheet of paper saying I was allowed to go diving.

I arrived on Magnetic Island that evening, and started the course early the next morning. As I slowly woke-up, it dawned on me that the other five people on the course were German, and that all but one of the instructors spoke German as a first-language. The course started with a lot of theoretical work. We were given a manual and told that we had to complete a multiple-choice exam before we were allowed into the ocean. This was a lot like the driving theory test, but with questions relating to Boyle’s Law, hydrostatic testing and partial pressures of nitrogen. This occasionally led to problems with translation. All the teaching materials were in English, leading to frequent breaks to rephrase more technical information in German. For example, apparently, there is no direct German translation for the word “Condemned”. Over the first couple of days, we only spent around an hour and a half in the pool doing practical skills. On the morning of the third day, we set-up all of our equipment, squeezed into black neoprene suits and staggered down the beach to the warm water of Nelly Bay.

These first two open-water dives were mostly spent performing the tasks that we had learned in the pool. These were things like clearing water from a mask, retrieving a lost 2nd-stage air regulator, and removing and replacing the buoyancy compensator jacket. The visability was around 8 metres on the first couple of dives. Not spectacular, but easily far enough to see things clearly. At one point, while kneeling on the sea-bed, an 18-inch stingray came along and sat next to me in the sand for a few minutes, before darting off into the coral, presumably looking for something more interesting. Our second day of open-water diving was much longer. Two dives in the morning, followed by another two in the afternoon. The morning session was mostly spent on more skills, but in the afternoon session we were free (as a group) to swim over the coral formations that are dotted around the bay. The visibility had decreased again, but we were still able to spot plenty of stingrays and even a small shark amongst the reef!

I really enjoyed the diving, but the early starts and breathing so much dry, compressed-air tired me out to the point that I didn’t really get to see any of the island itself. I’d like to come back here sometime in the next few months and take a few days to wander around a bit, and maybe do the Advanced Open-Water course, but now I’m off down the coast again to Airlie Beach where I’m going to jump onto a boat and sail around the Whitsunday Islands for a few days!

Tully River Whitewater Rafting

Our first leg on the Oz Experience bus took us to Mission Beach. Tom had decided to return to Sydney and work for a few months before travelling the coast, so our group now consisted of myself, Martin, Fiona, Jaime and Stacey. Martin and I were not in the best of conditions for travelling after our visit to the Woolshed, but soon became a little more lively after a short walk through the rainforest to break-up the drive.

Fi, Martin and I were booked into the same hostel, Scotty’s, which was very laid-back and had a nice restaurant/bar next door. I had booked a day of whitewater rafting on the nearby Tully river, and Jaime and Stacey wanted to jump out of an aeroplane, but Martin and Fi had no intentions of doing anything like that and quickly exhausted all that Mission Beach has to offer. It is quite a nice beach, but really, it’s just a beach. They left for Magnetic Island on the bus the next afternoon!

My rafting trip wasn’t until Sunday, so I took Saturday to organise and confirm the dates of my Open Water Dive course and sailing trip around the Whitsunday Islands. Early the next morning I was picked-up by the bus and taken out to the river. There were 6 rafts going out on the river that day, with 6-8 people in each. My raft had the full 8 people, including a frail-looking woman in her early-sixties, who it turns out still enjoys snowboarding in New Zealand and had rafted the same stretch of river almost 25 years ago!

I was told by our guide that rapids are graded from 1 to 6, where 6 is something that will almost certainly kill you in a raft. In fact he also said that it is difficult to even attempt grade 6 rapids in a raft, as a grade 6 is downgraded to a grade 5 as soon as it is successfully completed by a rafting crew! The rapids on this stretch of the Tully river were generally grade 4.

Surprisingly, I didn’t fall out of the raft once. I did have a few close calls, but somehow managed to pull myself back in by hooking my feet into the sides of the raft! By the end of the day though, I was ready to get out of the water. Sitting on an inflatable rubber boat and being washed down a river is far more tiring than it looks!

Cairns & Cape Tribulation

After the OzIntro week, our group more or less split in two. One sub-group planned to stay in Sydney permanently (or at least until the New Year), while the other planned to book flights up the coast to Cairns and travel South back to Sydney over a couple of months.

My plans fitted more closely with those of the second group, but I wanted to spend a couple of extra days in Sydney before setting off up the coast. So as the second group set off for the airport, I booked a flight for a couple of days time and checked-in at Wake Up in the city centre with the rest of the guys. Compared to the Surfside in Coogee, Wake Up is like a proper hotel. The ground-floor lobby and first-floor kitchen / TV room are open to all residents, but the lift operates on a card system, and only allows you to stop at the floor your room is located on. This is pretty good from a security point-of-view, but just proved to be an inconvenience when it came to meeting with people on other floors. The atmosphere in the hostel itself wasn’t very good, but the bar next door (Side Bar) was busy and had a couple of good live bands playing.

After two days of walking around Sydney, I got the bus to the airport and flew up the coast. I thought the weather in Sydney (in Winter) was comparable to what I’d left behind in Aberdeen (in Summer), but Cairns, being in the Tropics, was like another country completely! I had landed just after seven o’clock in the evening, but the temperature was still in the high 20’s and the humidity was just starting to drop. I met the rest of the group at the Calypso hostel about an hour later and ended up in the same room. Calypso is quiet and has a nice bar, but is about a 20-minute walk from the centre of Cairns. The hostel runs a free bus throughout the day until about 9 o’clock at night, but can still feel a little isolated.

On Sunday morning we got up early and boarded the Jungle Tours bus up to Cape Tribulation, where we were going to stay overnight. The drive up the coast was broken-up by a walk through the rain-forest in Mosman Gorge (and a quick swim in the river that runs through it!), and later for a crocodile-spotting river boat trip. After the scenery on the drive up the coast, I found Cape Tribulation itself to be a bit of a disappointment. The beach is very nice, but I’m not the sort of person who can just sit on a nice beach all day. The next afternoon we got back on the bus and drove directly back to Cairns. This time we had decided to stay closer to the city centre, and myself and Martin checked-in at Bohemia Central. We were in a 4-share room, which only really had enough space for two people, so after a couple of nights I moved to Giligans. Giligans is a huge hostel, much like Wake Up in Sydney, but was cheaper and has much bigger beds than Bohemia. I soon learned that it does have a bad reputation for bugs, but I was only there for a couple of nights and thankfully managed to avoid them.

During our trip to Cape Tribulation it had started to rain a little. Once we had returned to Cairns this rain had turned into a tropical downpour that didn’t stop until we left on the Friday morning. As a result of not really being able to go outside, the rest of our time in Cairns had descended into a long, drunken mess. This culminated in a night at the Woolshed, which is probably the most “energetic” bar I’ve ever seen, and was almost made it worth spending the extra few days in the tropical rain before we could get the bus to Mission Beach.

OpenVPN Tutorial

The Register has published a nice tutorial on setting up OpenVPN.

I set this up a few weeks ago as an alternative to using a SOCKS proxy over SSH while I’m travelling. This article would have been helpful though!